Turkmen BILEZIK silver bracelet with three almond shaped carnelians, engraved Teke tradition tribal cuff

Turkmen silver BILEZIK bracelet set with three matching almond-shaped carnelians in closed bezels on an open band. Engraved scrollwork against a gold-colored ground and centrally ridged terminals associate it with the Teke tradition of Central Asia. The contrast between silver, gold-colored surfaces, and red carnelian is a recurring feature of this jewelry. BILEZIK bracelets formed part of women’s adornment and were generally worn in pairs, one on each wrist. They range from bracelets with a single register of stones, such as this example, to broad cuffs covering part of the forearm. Their use is particularly documented for festivals and ceremonies.

AGE: Early 20th century.

ORIGIN: Central Asia, Turkmen; attributed to the Teke tradition.

MATERIALS: Silver and carnelian. Composition of the gold-colored metallic decoration undetermined; silver fineness unspecified.

SIZE: Inner diameter approximately 60 mm; opening approximately 30 mm.

WEIGHT: 39 g.

CONDITION AND TERMS: Patina, surface scratches, and wear to the gold-colored decoration. Visible irregularities around the bezels and terminal joins. Offered as a single bracelet.

REFERENCES:
- Orfèvres lointains / bijoux d'Asie, d'Afrique, d'Océanie et d'Amérique, collection de Colette et Jean-Pierre Ghysels, France Borel, 1995, Hazan, p.123
- A World of Bracelets, Anne Van Cutsem, 2003, SKIRA, p.151